The Secret Power of Lesbian Style

G. Trebay

Go scrounging through the visual imagery that defines gay women in the popular imagination and the stereotypes are as predictable in their own way as Carson Kressley is in his, and a lot less goofy-cute. There is the Miss Jane Hathaway type in tweeds and brogues. There is the luggage-tanned Dinah Shore Golf Classic gal in a visor and pleated khaki shorts. There are the softball catcher with her cap turned backward and the clanking motorcycle mama in engineer's boots. And, of course, there is Rosie O'Donnell, in boxy suits that look like advertisements for a Big & Tall store.It was not long ago that the print and electronic media began registering the existence of so-called lipstick lesbians, and a phrase like "lesbian fashion" stopped being an outright oxymoron. When the Showtime series "The L Word" began in January, it showed that - far from being frumps doomed to Manolo Blahnik deficiency - lesbians are a powerful presence in fashion, in both predictable and unexpected ways.The old stereotypes have not faded. But they have slipped into something decidedly cool. "I have this theory that lesbians start certain fashion things," said Stephanie Perdomo, the creator of a new collection of action figures called Dykedolls, which will be sold on the Internet starting in July. "I used to go around Williamsburg and see guys wearing wifebeaters, wallet chains, gas station shirts and trucker hats, and I would think, `We used to do that five years ago,' " Ms. Perdomo said.